If you like watches, you also love automatic watches. I've heard this so many times, but is it true? What makes automatic watches so special? And do they still have a place in a world where smartwatches dominate the markets?
Watches are not an entirely new universe for me. Yes, they are related to the jewelry world; most jewelers have one or more watch brands in their collections. But at the same time, the worlds of watches and jewelry are very clearly separated in several aspects.
At the recent Vicenza Oro exhibition, there was more space and attention dedicated to watch brands, noting an increased number of exhibitors from independent brands. And...I was curious!
Can you never understand why anyone would want an automatic watch? Why choose that when batteries make everything so much easier!? And why choose a watch in this era when we are massively focused on smartwatches? This piece looks like it's from the age of the dinosaurs. But the watch collector market is a thriving business, with many younger collectors taking to Reddit and other social media groups to endlessly discuss their love for these pieces.
I don't feel like a novice explorer in this field at all. For several years, I have been holding a guiding light in my hands, making my way through the exciting jungle that is the world of watches. My first blog post on automatic watches should cover the basics, so I thought I'd start with the basics. Because maybe, like many others, you are also not aware of many aspects related to them, so take my hand and let's go!
What is an automatic watch?
Automatic watches, also known as self-winding watches, are a type of mechanical watch that uses the movement of the wearer's wrist to wind the mainspring, powering the watch. This is in contrast to quartz watches, which are powered by a battery.
Some of the biggest advantages of automatic watches are their accuracy and durability. Because they are mechanical, they don't rely on batteries to be replaced and can last for decades with proper maintenance. They also have charm and elegance that many watch enthusiasts find appealing.
The downside: Automatic watches can be more expensive than quartz watches and require more maintenance. They need to be checked every few years and if they are not worn regularly they may need to be turned by hand to keep them working.
If you are considering buying an automatic watch, here are a few things to keep in mind:
1. Make sure you understand the movement: Automatic watches have different types of movements, so it's essential to understand the differences and choose the one that best suits your needs.
2. Consider the brand: They have different reputations for quality and durability, so do your research to find one you can trust.
3. Decide your style: Automatic watches come in a wide variety of styles, from sporty to formal, so think about when you will use the watch and what style best suits your personality.
4. Think about the price: Automatic watches can be quite expensive, so set a budget in mind and stick to it.
5. Read the warranty terms carefully: make sure you understand them and are fully informed before buying.
Overall, automatic watches are an excellent choice for anyone who appreciates the precision, durability and craftsmanship of a timepiece. With so many options available, you can find one that suits your needs and style.
Some very famous brands of automatic watches:
1. Rolex: Known for their precision and durability, Rolex automatic watches are some of the most sought after in the world. Prices for a new Rolex automatic watch can range from around 5,000 to over 50,000 euros, depending on the model and materials.
2. Omega: another well-known brand in the world of automatic watches. Prices for an Omega automatic watch can vary between 3,000 and 10,000 euros.
3. Breitling: Breitling is famous for its sporty, high-performance automatic watches. Prices for a Breitling automatic watch can vary between approximately 4,000 and 10,000 euros, depending on the model and the materials from which it is made.
4. IWC: short for International Watch Company, it is known for the accuracy and luxurious allure that their watches have. The prices for an IWC automatic watch can vary between 5,000 and 20,000 euros, also depending on the criteria present in the other brands.
5. Panerai: Panerai watches are known for their bold designs, considered one of the most sought after luxury watches. Prices for a Panerai automatic watch can vary between 5,000 and 20,000 euros.
6. Patek Philippe: It is considered one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world, known for its exceptional charm and precision. The prices for a Patek Philippe automatic watch can vary from approximately 10,000 euros and can reach over 100,000 euros.
It should be noted that the prices of automatic watches may vary depending on the model, materials and features, and these are only approximate ranges. Before purchasing, compare different models and brands to find the one that best suits both your needs and your budget.
Two automatic watch brands that I love are Christiaan van der Klaauw and Jaquet Droz
While many reputable automatic watch brands are on the market, two stand out to me. They have a superb design and their craftsmanship and precision are exceptional. These are Christiaan van der Klaauw and Jaquet Droz.
Christiaan van der Klaauw is a Dutch brand that creates automatic astronomical watches. These watches are known for their complex and accurate astronomical complications, such as displaying the phases of the moon, the position of the stars and the movement of the planets. Prices for a Christiaan van der Klaauw automatic astronomical watch can range from €20,000 to €100,000, depending on the model and complications.
Lady Arpels Planetarium by Van Cleef & Arpels in collaboration with Christiaan van der Klaauw.
Automatic mechanics Power reserve: 40 h, 28800 variations/hour.
Price: €256,000. White gold, alligator leather.
Functions: hours, minutes, date, day, month, year, moon phases
Movement of the Planetarium.
Courtesy: van Cleef & Arpels and Christiaan van der Klaauw
It should be remembered that, when we talk about complications, in the world of watches, they refer to certain functions that the watch can display and among them we list: chronograph, date, power reserve, regulator, thermometer, altimeter, barometer, moon phases, etc. .
On the other hand, Jaquet Droz is a Swiss brand known for creating elegant and sophisticated automatic watches. They are recognized for their complex and precise complications such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. Prices for a Jaquet Droz automatic watch can vary between 20,000 and 100,000 euros. Their most exclusive model is the "Grande Seconde Off-Centered", considered one of the most elegant and sophisticated watches in the world; its price can vary from 50,000 to 100,000 euros.
Jaquet Droz introduces a black jade dial version of its Grande Seconde Off-Centered model,
the watch with the elegant figure eight on the dial that forms the core collection of the brand.
The Grande Seconde Off-Centered is an offshoot of the original Grande Seconde and features the classic configuration
in the figure of eight a twist by moving the two sub-dials by 30 degrees.
Housed in a 43mm red gold case, the black jade dial offers
a fascinating background for the graceful arrangement on the dial.
Speaking of minute repeaters, they give the watch the function of a mini pendulum, which alerts the wearer, through different sounds, when the watch reaches the fixed time or signals the quarter and half hour.
This company also creates unique pieces full of enamel detail, such as The Bird Repeater, from whose collection The Tropical Bird Repeater is my favourite.
Hand-painted and engraved white mother-of-pearl dial, white mother-of-pearl sub-dial. Hand-engraved 18K white or rose gold case and applied ring. Hand-engraved and hand-painted applied decoration in 18 karat white or rose gold. Minute repeater, mechanical movement with manual winding. Automatic animation with peacock, tropical leaves, hummingbird, toucan, dragonfly and waterfall. 50 hour power reserve. Diameter 47 mm. Numerus Clausus of 8. ( There are exactly eight of these watches planned – Jaquet Droz refers to their limited editions as "numerus clausus" which is a Latin term. Originally, "numerus clausus" was an academic term and referred to the maximum number of applicants who would be admitted to a particular class. It's a fancy way of saying "limited edition", but given the effort required to produce a paillonnée dial, I think we could forgive them a bit of posturing)
The brand recently made headlines with The Rolling Stones Automaton, with an estimated retail price of €268,000.
Jaquet Droz. The Rolling Stone vending machine.
The guitars and their amplifier are individually hand-shaped from a single block of red gold,
engraved then painted. The various drums are also made of white and red gold threads.
The exact color tone of each instrument, the tweed finish of the amplifier, the pickguard of the guitars, the tolex of the speakers:
every tiny detail, the smallest imperceptible reflection are hand painted.
Even Mick Jagger's harmonica is reproduced, next to his microphone, in a block of gold no larger than 1/10 of a millimeter.
On the background of the sapphire caseback, the red gold oscillating weight will be engraved with the name of the chosen album,
of the 23 available to the collector, to illustrate the image below the center stage – with its release date
and the name of the studio where it was recorded, resulting in a unique track appropriately engraved "1/1".
(Text and informative image courtesy of Jaquet Droz)
The most expensive automatic watches
As for the most expensive automatic watch on the market, it's hard to say, as prices can fluctuate and new models are constantly being released. However, some of the most expensive automatic watches ever sold at auction include the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518, which sold for over $11 million in 2016, and the Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263, which sold for about $17 million in 2017.
The watch with the most complications
Sometimes, the complications go so far as to turn a watch into anomalies of the industry. An example of this is the FRANK MULLER AETERNITAS MEGA 4 model, which has no less than 36 complications, of which only 25 are visible. The time required to manufacture this model is 5 years, it has 1,483 components and costs around 2.7 million euros.
Franck Muller-Aeternitas Mega 4
Five reasons to choose an automatic watch:
1. Automatic watches are a true masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship. They are precision instruments that have stood the test of time and are built to last for decades, if not centuries.
2. Automatic watches are a symbol of style and elegance. They are the perfect accessory for anyone who wants to make a statement and stand out.
3. Automatic watches are a significant investment. They are not only practical watches but also valuable pieces of art that can be appreciated over time.
4. Automatic watches are the perfect blend of tradition and technology. They are a nod to the past, but also incorporate the latest advances in engineering and materials.
5. Automatic watches are a good conversation starter. They are fascinating topics that can spark interesting discussions with other watch enthusiasts.
On the other hand....,
1. Automatic watches require regular maintenance and checking. They need to be serviced every few years and if they are not worn regularly they may need to be turned by hand to keep them working.
2. Automatic watches can be more expensive than quartz watches, especially those from luxury brands. They may only be accessible to some people.
3. Automatic watches are not the best option for people looking for a watch that is easy to use and maintain.
How to properly store an automatic watch:
Proper storage of an automatic watch is vital to ensure that it continues to function accurately and maintain its condition. Here are some tips on how to maintain an automatic watch:
1. Keep it with the spring wound: If you do not intend to wear the automatic watch for a long time, please wind it manually before storing it. This will keep the main spring tight and prevent it from unwinding.
2. Keep it in a cool and dry place: Avoid storing the automatic watch in a humid environment, as this may cause rust and corrosion. It is best to store your watch in a cool, dry place such as a safe or watch box.
3. Use a watch winder: A watch winder is a device that maintains an automatic winding of the watch when it is not being worn. This is a great option for people with multiple automatic watches who want to keep them all in working order.
4. Please keep it away from magnets: Automatic watches are sensitive to magnetic fields, so it is best to keep them away from electronic devices and other sources of magnetism.
5. Use a watch cover: to protect the watch from dust, scratches or any damage; you can use a watch case. This will help keep your watch in good condition while in storage.
By following these tips, you can ensure that your automatic watch is properly stored and continues to function accurately for years to come.